Friday, October 10, 2014

Chefchaouen the blue city in the Rif

We finished the bouncy bus ride in a very picturesque place.  It is a bit odd, as the main industries here are sheep, cheese, tourism and hashish.  Not in that order.  As we drove in we could see marijuana fields from the main highway.  It is illegal of course, but the law is "unenforceable" according to our guide.  The authorities are afraid of the growers it seems. (Sounds a little familiar!)

As a result, you have an interesting mix of "mountain people" with a Berber dialect that is different from the rest of their Berber tribes, a Muslim (normal) population, a lot of stoned Spanish tourists (check the  map - it is a weekend holiday from Spain to Chefchaouen) 

Ah whatever, it seems to work... The town was painted blue in the 15th century.  Two theories here: it repels Mosquitos, and/or the Jews that fled Spain at that time who settled here painted it this way because it is "a good color for the Jews".  I choose a third explanation: it is quaint and the tourists like it.

The town is built on a dramatic hillside- lots of stairs and winding alleys.  It was overwhelming at first but we are getting the hang of it.  Turn left at the blue wall with the feral cat, you will find your way!

No special handicrafts here unless you count hashish so we are not really buying anything yet, but we did wander around the market.  Great people watching and colorful characters.  I am still trying to be fairly circumspect with photographing people.  I have been yelled at once so I am being careful.

A few highlights for you


 Do you need your carpet cleaned?  We walked to the source of the stream above the city and found "free laundry facilities". I guess the memo of "doing your washing with phosphate soap is bad for the ecology of the river" has not yet reached the Rif mountain towns.

This is where we had an ok lunch with a spectacular view.  We are under the umbrella on the right.  It turns out this region is not really know for its food.  It is fine, but Ruth's Kefta recipe would win in a cooking contest so far.  This town is virtually dry (no alcohol. Hashish is fine, but booze is forbidden) and a beer with this view would have been awfully nice!
The people watching is spectacular.  The locals watch the tourists go by and (I suppose) make fun of their hats and clothes. (And dreadlocks and pseudo hippy euro trash way of life.) Meanwhile, the tourists watch the locals and (I suppose) make fun of their hats and super conservative clothes (and narrow interpretation of what is proper and correct).  We (being perfect in every way) got to make fun of everyone.  I am sure no one though my hat was odd. 

Some local ladies doing a bit of shopping in the morning.


Cat models. This look is called "blue steel"


I couldn't help myself... This guy looked like a wizard.  I think the wind was filling the hood of his djaleba "just so" but still.  I kind of want one of these.   Am not sure why though.

Ok, even our guide poked a little fun at this headware, but it was because the woman on the right was wearing "a men's hat" and apparently this is odd... The one on the left is the normal one (rainbow colored pompoms and all!)  This is typical "mountain attire"

Just a cool looking door.

This was before the stores opened.  Very picturesque and calm!

We are all feeling good so far and having a good time.  This town was nice and relaxing compared to Casablanca.  Tomorrow we are off to see a roman city, another walled city and we will then be in Fes for a few nights.  It is well liked according to fellow travelers.

Until next time!

Greg & Ruth





1 comment:

  1. These photos and narrative continue to help us share your trip. The photo of the local women with the hats could have been taken in the mountain villages of Equadore...I think I have the same picture!

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