Fez, Fes fffffffez

Uh oh... I am getting behind.  Busy day today with no bus time!  We spent the day touring various and sundry sights in Fez... Some religious or architecturally significant, Many of which were in the sprawling Medina (souk).  We also looked at pottery, antiques, carpets, leather and had a true assault of the senses.  Fes is the center of handicrafts in a country that still does things the old fashioned way.  Visually, there are sinister alleys splitting off of sinister alleys... Glad to have a guide even though I love to get lost in these kind of situations.  Enjoy a few pics!

It is good to be king.  This is a palace gate... Amazing handiwork.

Traditional Fes pottery is hand painted by guys like this.  Of course we bought something.  Come over for dinner and you can see!

  

Hand chiseling is another method still in use.  Notice the Hebrew letters.

Need to be skinny to get through some of these alleys!

One of the earliest madrasas (Koranic schools) in the region pretty amazing architecture.

I don't think there were women here... But Ruth is a nice addition to the balcony.

Chaotic scenes at every turn... Difficult to capture on film without being run down by a donkey.

We visited an old caravanasi or fondouk  for carpenters that was really cool.  Carved cedar everywhere.

The tannery.  Vats of pigeon poop and other delights.

I somehow wanted these, but resisted.

Yep, they still use donkeys to transport goods.  Nothing else fits!

Of course... Enjoy the theater of carpet shopping.  You must do it. Everyone in our group is getting at least one carpet except us.  It was a good day for this shop! 

Extra fine quality, I will make you a good price...

Feeling good and having fun!

Until next time

Greg & Ruth

Snakes, gates, ruins and a party! Aka volubilis, meknes, and a party

We left chefchouen after breakfast for the ancient Roman city of Volubulis.  I will save you all from my architecture lecture.  I don't want to "ruin" your day...just a few pictures of this well preserved city.  rich and Barbara REALLY liked it!

From there we traveled to the imperial city of meknes, where we had a bad lunch in a cool room.  (We aren't doing to well with our lunches so far.)

This city was built up in the 16th century by a very despotic ruler whose name escapes me at the moment.  Bad dude, killed a lot of people.  Oh well, I better not become a tour guide.  If you really need to know I will look it up.  At any rate, we visited his tomb.

As well a a jail and a beautiful gate that he created.

From there we took a stroll through the medina (souk) and mellah (Jewish quarter) where some of our group got involved with a baby shower!  Somehow ululating women make for a happy day!

Snake charmers in the square

This one is for you dad... It dices, it slices it chops and it grinds!

Ulululululilililililqlulululululilililulilulilulilulilulil!

We are now traveling into Fes where we will be for the next few nights.

Until next time!

Greg & Ruth

Chefchaouen the blue city in the Rif

We finished the bouncy bus ride in a very picturesque place.  It is a bit odd, as the main industries here are sheep, cheese, tourism and hashish.  Not in that order.  As we drove in we could see marijuana fields from the main highway.  It is illegal of course, but the law is "unenforceable" according to our guide.  The authorities are afraid of the growers it seems. (Sounds a little familiar!)

As a result, you have an interesting mix of "mountain people" with a Berber dialect that is different from the rest of their Berber tribes, a Muslim (normal) population, a lot of stoned Spanish tourists (check the  map - it is a weekend holiday from Spain to Chefchaouen) 

Ah whatever, it seems to work... The town was painted blue in the 15th century.  Two theories here: it repels Mosquitos, and/or the Jews that fled Spain at that time who settled here painted it this way because it is "a good color for the Jews".  I choose a third explanation: it is quaint and the tourists like it.

The town is built on a dramatic hillside- lots of stairs and winding alleys.  It was overwhelming at first but we are getting the hang of it.  Turn left at the blue wall with the feral cat, you will find your way!

No special handicrafts here unless you count hashish so we are not really buying anything yet, but we did wander around the market.  Great people watching and colorful characters.  I am still trying to be fairly circumspect with photographing people.  I have been yelled at once so I am being careful.

A few highlights for you

 

The cats seem to know ruth is coming and get into cute poses in picturesque places.

 Do you need your carpet cleaned?  We walked to the source of the stream above the city and found "free laundry facilities". I guess the memo of "doing your washing with phosphate soap is bad for the ecology of the river" has not yet reached the Rif mountain towns.

This is where we had an ok lunch with a spectacular view.  We are under the umbrella on the right.  It turns out this region is not really know for its food.  It is fine, but Ruth's Kefta recipe would win in a cooking contest so far.  This town is virtually dry (no alcohol. Hashish is fine, but booze is forbidden) and a beer with this view would have been awfully nice!

The people watching is spectacular.  The locals watch the tourists go by and (I suppose) make fun of their hats and clothes. (And dreadlocks and pseudo hippy euro trash way of life.) Meanwhile, the tourists watch the locals and (I suppose) make fun of their hats and super conservative clothes (and narrow interpretation of what is proper and correct).  We (being perfect in every way) got to make fun of everyone.  I am sure no one though my hat was odd. 

Some local ladies doing a bit of shopping in the morning.

Cat models. This look is called "blue steel"

I couldn't help myself... This guy looked like a wizard.  I think the wind was filling the hood of his djaleba "just so" but still.  I kind of want one of these.   Am not sure why though.

Ok, even our guide poked a little fun at this headware, but it was because the woman on the right was wearing "a men's hat" and apparently this is odd... The one on the left is the normal one (rainbow colored pompoms and all!)  This is typical "mountain attire"

Just a cool looking door.

This was before the stores opened.  Very picturesque and calm!

We are all feeling good so far and having a good time.  This town was nice and relaxing compared to Casablanca.  Tomorrow we are off to see a roman city, another walled city and we will then be in Fes for a few nights.  It is well liked according to fellow travelers.

Until next time!

Greg & Ruth

Casablanca to Rabat aka installments from the bouncy bus!

Imagine four fighter pilots walking in slow motion across the tarmac.  Helmets are tucked under their arms.  They have names like goose, mad-dog, and ace.  Now scratch that and imagine the four lovely ladies on our trip... Here they are headed to visit the second or third (we got both versions) largest mosque on the planet - Hassan II, the pride of Casablanca.  It is a modern building, finished in the 90s.  It was absolutely stunning.  The pictures don't capture the vast size.  It holds 25,000 of the faithful when it is at capacity during Ramadan.

The mosque is situated in a grand courtyard with amazing architecture at every turn.

The building is cantilevered over the Atlantic Ocean making for a striking setting.  We arrived when the light was very dramatic.  

The craftsmanship was amazing.  The building was built in 6 short years.  7 days a week, 24 hours a day.  Up to 25,000 craftsman and laborors worked  on the building.  It shows!

The ladies "went native" out of respect.  Super hot!

Still risqué compared to this mama:

After about a one hour tour, we hopped back on our bus with our driver and guide.  Both named Abdul.  (So yes, we do have dueling abduls) and headed to Rabat.

In Rabat we visited the royal palace

And the tomb of Mohamed V which was built on the ruins of a 10th or 11th century mosque.

Then we had a bad lunch with a great view.

And now, we are on a looooooong bouncy bus ride through the countryside to chefchouen where we will stay for a few days.  

I think we are being eased into the culture.  As we look out the window, it appears that we have left the cosmopolitan cities behind and are sharing the road with donkey carts, sheep and a lot more scooters.

Everyone is feeling good so far.  The missing luggage was retrieved and reunited.  We feel safe (except when crossing the road.) and welcome as Jews.  This morning we crossed paths with a tour group from Israel.  They were all smiles as well.

My favorite quote of the day:  "we aren't going to stop at the mellah in Rabat.  No point, it isn't very old...14th century I think."

Until next time!

Greg & ruth

Safe and sound in Casablanca

Nothing too exciting to report... We are here.  Most of the bags made it too!  The rest will get sorted out in due time.

On to adventures! 

We have had our first of many glasses of mint tea, met our guide and driver who seem terrific, knowledgeable, funny and unflappable. A quick shower, and off to tour a mosque before dinner.

The hotel seems great in a lavish, quirky way. This was our mint tea welcome

Look at these lovely travelers! (Still fresh in Seattle.)

More coming when I have something to report other than our existence.

Lift off... sort of!

Well... We think we are ready.  We fly tomorrow!

Anything we are missing now is part of the adventure.  Often, on the way to NYC Greg says to Ruth "I hear there are stores in NYC." Whatever we have forgotten is usually found within 10 steps of the apartment.  

Though Morocco is not exactly the Sahara desert, (except the part that is...) We think we will be able to fill in whatever blanks we have in our kit along the way, just not as easily as NYC!

The cats are really puzzled by all the commotion,

 and... though they are demanding an explanation, we are not telling them where we are going, or how long we will be gone.  It is just none of their damned business. As cute as they are, we just don't trust them.

We spent some time with a bunch of our friends and acquaintances over the Jewish holidays and more than a few questioned our sanity in taking this trip at this time.  (MERS, Ebola, and ISIL were the most commonly raised concerns.)  

So, a few more quick words about why we are going to Morocco:

* Though closer geographically to the affected regions of west Africa, the risk of Ebola in Morocco is similar to the risk in Seattle.

* MERS -  Cases of Middle East Respiratory Syndrome have been reported in:

• Iran
• Jordan
• Lebanon
• Saudi Arabia
• United Arab Emirates
• Yemen

NOT Morocco.  There MAY have been a case in a Saudi tourist visiting Morocco in 2013 so... We are not too worried.

*ISIL - yep... we are a little worried about terrorists everywhere.  Greg says "I sat in synagogue and worried about terrorists, I worry a little all the time."  It is a calculated risk to leave your house.  We are going to keep our heads down and choose to experience life instead of cowering in fear.

Morocco has always been a supporter of moderate Islamic teaching.  By choosing to visit, we are supporting this effort.  For every nasty thing you read on the internet, there is something positive, like the campaign underway that has everyday citizens stating"not in my name" in response to fundamentalist terrorists. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=71T9MP6lQlo

We hope to learn more on this trip about real Muslims, the majority, the ones who follow the peaceful traditions of their faith. Not the bloodthirsty terrorists that are corrupting one of the world's great religions.

It would be a shame to judge all American Christians by the actions of the Westboro Baptist Church, KKK, or any number of groups that claim to be Christian.  Or to judge American Jewry by its most radical elements.

Here is a good article about the positive steps being taken in Morocco to fight the spread of fundamentalist Islam: http://www.washingtontimes.com/news/2013/nov/25/morocco-trains-500-imams-to-counter-spread-of-radi/?page=all

So... off we go.  Off the high horse now and into decadent travel pleasures.  Don't worry - this blog will be more about food and less about politics from now on!

Ila al-liqa'a

Greg & Ruth